The Banda Islands Today

 

 


Pulau Ay and the central Bandas from Pulau Nailakka
photo by Andrew Lawless

Banda is within the administrative province of Maluku, Indonesia, a part of Eastern Indonesia also known as the Moluccas. Most people in Banda are farmers and/or fisherman, and are of varying ethnic backgrounds, descended from original Bandanese and immigrants from all over the world, especially Java, the Malay Peninsula, Bay of Bengal and Europe. The people speak Indonesian, and approximately 95% are Muslim and 5% Christian. Nutmeg remains an important export crop, along with fish (particularly tuna), cloves, and bananas. Tourism is also becoming an important part of the economy, with several thousand domestic and foreign visitors arriving per year.

boys in a kole kole dugout canoe, Pulau Ay, 1997
photo by Andrew Lawless


The largest town in the islands is Naira, on the island of Banda Naira which also has the market, high school, museums, government offices and the wharf and air strip that serve all of the Banda islands. Naira is a town of about 6,000 people, with only a dozen cars. Many of the buildings date from the Dutch colonial period, and are very interesting architecturally with polished marble or tile floors and inner courtyards and gardens. Some are in ruins, although there have been some recent efforts to restore some of them. The pace of life is pleasantly slow here, even though it is the most "bustling" town in the islands. The largest island is Banda Besar, which has several small villages along its coast, and a rugged mountainous interior.
These islands are accessible only by motor boat. Each has a unique atmosphere and geography, are less "developed" than Naira (i.e. no motor vehicles or telephones) and all invite exploration.

 

ruins of a Dutch colonial period hospital, Banda Naira, 1997
photo by Andrew Lawless


The Banda Islands have spectacular scenery, and many visual reminders of the past, like crumbling, overgrown fortresses and colonial-style houses. The surrounding coral reefs are some of the most beautiful and unspoiled in the world, with steep drop offs to the deep Banda Sea basin. Although tourists are beginning to discover the charms of Banda, it still lies well off the beaten track of most international visitors, primarily because of its isolation and undeveloped tourist facilities.

Fort Nassau (built in 1609 by the Dutch, against the wishes of Bandanese leaders) and the waterfront at Naira, with Banda Besar Island in the background, circa 1890
photo (no. 2748) from the archives at the Koninklijk Instituut voor Taal-, Land- en Volkenkunde, Leiden, The Netherlands

Banda News Update:

In April 1999, the violence that has erupted in Ambon, Kai, Seram and other parts of Maluku spread to Banda. Since January 1999, over 400 have been killed in riots and attacks in the region, which are driven by Christian-Moslem animosity, but also by other divisions in Maluku society, including anti-immigrant feelings and resentment over central government rule, exacerbated by hardships suffered by most Maluku people in the current economic crisis. The reasons behind the violence are complex, and poorly understood. The results, however, are tragic and real. In Banda, a mob of as many as 2000 people destroyed buildings in Banda Naira, Pulau Hatta, Pulau Ay and Banda Besar. Many of the historic colonial houses in Banda Naira were destroyed, and the Dutch church on Pulau Ay, the second oldest in Indonesia, was burned down (the oldest church, in the village of Hila on Ambon island, was also destroyed in January 1999). Most of the Van dem Broeke family was massacred, including Wim's wife, her sister, his son's wife and their two daughters, ages 9 and 12.

While there has not been an outbreak of violence since then in Banda (as of August 1999), tensions still simmer, and the flood of refugees from Ambon and other parts of Maluku has strained Banda's society and environment (some estimates report 4000 refugees in Banda--an increase of 30% over the normal population). Ambon still smolders, with outbreaks of fighting reported in July and August 1999.

For information on how you can help relief efforts, please contact me.


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Contents copyright 1999 Peter Lape
Last updated August 17, 1999