Overview

The headwaters of the West River lie in the rolling hills of Lincoln, Rhode Island.  From here the river meanders through the eastern edge of Smithfield, through North Providence, and finally enters Providence, where it becomes the main tributary to the Moshassuck River.  The 2.4-mile segment within the boundaries of Providence flows southeastward from Geneva Pond, an old mill pond that is located just south of Route 7 (Douglas Avenue) on the Providence-North Providence border.  From here the river moves past Geneva Mill, currently occupied by several manufacturing firms, and into an overgrown marshy area that was once a mill pond known as Whipple’s Pond.  The river then continues through a residential neighborhood toward the vacant Steere Mill at the north end of Wild Street.  After passing the mill, the river crosses under Veazie Street and continues through a residential area, running roughly parallel to Branch Avenue.  Approaching its intersection with Branch Avenue, the river enters another marshy area, formerly Wanskuck Pond, and is then channeled through the Wanskuck Mill complex, most of which is currently used for commercial and industrial purposes.  

From here the river passes under Branch Avenue and is briefly lost under the parking lot of a shopping plaza.  It emerges again near the bottom of Vandewater Street and continues through another residential area to the Rhode Island School for the Deaf and Corliss Park.  After this the river crosses under Route 146 (Louisquisset Pike) and enters another stretch of marsh.  At this point the river is joined by a short tributary from Canada Pond, a 20-acre man-made pond which once supplied water for the nearby mills.  The river then passes under Hawkins Street and continues southeastward through a wooded strip running parallel to Route 146.  After passing Prete and Metcalf Fields, the Hopkins Middle School, and the Charles Place Apartments, the river turns east to cross under Route 246 (Charles Street) just south of its intersection with Silver Spring Street.  At this point the river enters a concrete channel as it flows past the old Silver Spring Mill complex.  After this it crosses under the Amtrak line, under West River Street, and continues along the southern edge of the Stop & Shop parking lot.  Finally, the river crosses under Interstate 95 to join the Moshassuck, a little over half a mile north of downtown.  The Moshassuck then flows southward into downtown Providence to join the Woonasquatucket River and ultimately empty into the Narragansett Bay.  

History  

Little is known of the early history of the West River.  Our use of the Native American name “Wanskuck” (meaning “low lands”) for the neighborhood around the river and the discovery of pre-European artifacts in the area suggest an early Native American presence.[1]  The recorded history of the West River begins much later when European Americans started to recognize the river’s value as a power source for industry.   The first industrial venture on the West River dates back to the early 1800s, when a small cotton mill was built off of Branch Avenue on Wanskuck Pond.  A village developed gradually around this site.  In 1862 the Wanskuck Company was formed in response to high demand for Civil War army uniforms, blankets, and civilian clothes.  The company bought the mill on Wanskuck Pond and developed a substantial factory complex for the production of woolen goods.  After the war, the company started to produce worsted cloth for men’s suits, and by 1898 they expanded their enterprise to include two additional mills along the West River: Geneva Mill off of Douglas Avenue and Steere Mill off of Wild Street.  To accommodate these mills, the river was channeled into a complex interconnected water system and dammed in two places to create Geneva Pond and Whipple’s Pond.   

During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Wanskuck Company drove the development of the neighborhood.  In addition to worker housing, the company built many civic and commercial buildings, including Wanskuck Hall, the Wanskuck Boys and Girls Club, the Wanskuck Library, and St. Edward’s Church and School.  The company attracted diverse European immigrants to work in the mills, including Italians, Irish, Scottish, Germans, and French Canadians.  After World War II, recession and a declining market for worsted material defeated the city’s remaining large textile companies.  With the Wanskuck Company’s dissolution in 1957, the North End lost its industrial base and the West River sank into relative obscurity. 

Farther downstream, several other mills developed contemporaneously with those of the Wanskuck Company.  The most important of these was the Silver Spring mill complex off of Charles Street.  The original bleachery that occupied this site in the early 1800s acquired a reputation for the extreme whiteness of their products, apparently due to the purity of the water from the West River and from a spring on the site.[2]  In 1864 the Silver Spring Bleaching and Dyeing Company took over the property, expanding the brick mill complex down the southern bank of the West River.  Like the Wanskuck Company upstream, the Silver Spring Bleaching and Dyeing Company played a major role in the physical and social development of the local neighborhood.  By the 1930s, the area had become a populous, ethnically diverse neighborhood for working and middle class residents.  The Silver Spring Bleaching and Dyeing Company closed in 1939.  

Although the West River has long since lost its position as the centerpiece of a string of thriving industrial villages, many relics of this heyday remain intact.  Geneva Mill, Steere Mill, and Wanskuck Mill still stand.  According to the Rhode Island Historical Preservation Commission, the Steere Mill has one of the most distinctive mill towers remaining in Providence, notable for its high mansard roof, bold corner pilasters, and corbel caps.[3]  Much of the three mills’ interconnected water system also still exists, although two of the mill ponds have become marshes and the third, Geneva Pond, is silting in rapidly.[4]  Most of the civic buildings erected by the Wanskuck Company are still standing, and many of them continue to be used for their original purposes.  Downstream, much of the Silver Spring mill complex remains intact, including a tall smokestack which towers above the factory as a dramatic reminder of the importance of steam power in mills.[5]  

North End Neighborhoods   

As the West River flows toward the Moshassuck, it passes through the two neighborhoods of Providence’s North End: Wanskuck and Charles.  Generally considered “mainstream Providence,” these neighborhoods are characterized by stable residential communities with areas of light manufacturing and businesses.[6]  The 1990 census reported the population of Wanskuck as 9,448 and the population of Charles as 5,911.  While overall population growth has been modest in the recent past, the North End experienced a “mini baby boom” in the last decade, necessitating the reopening of several schools.[7]  Although both neighborhoods are considered ethnically diverse, Charles has a strong Italian heritage with few minorities, while Wanskuck has a much larger minority population.  In both neighborhoods, the median household income hovers around the citywide median.

Points of Interest  

The West River connects many points of interest in the Wanskuck and Charles neighborhoods.  The river winds through several single- and multi-family-home residential areas.  A number of major shopping centers are also located along its course, most notably the Stop & Shop just west of Interstate 95; the Ames Plaza off of Silver Spring Street, which includes an Ames department store and four smaller shops; a shopping center off of Branch Avenue, which includes a hardware store, a liquor store, a carpet outlet, a video store, and a few restaurants; the Wanskuck Retail and Office Complex, which houses a bicycle shop, an architecture firm, a gym, a furniture store, a bakery, and several other businesses; and the North Providence Marketplace, with a Shaw’s Supermarket and fifteen other shops.  

The river also links several schools: Hopkins Middle School, St.  Ann School, Rhode Island School for the Deaf, and St. Edward School.  A number of important community facilities are also located along the river, including the DaVinci Center for Community Progress, the Wanskuck Boys and Girls Club, St. Edward Church, the Wanskuck Community Police Office, and a YWCA.  In addition, the river connects several outdoor recreational facilities, including Metcalf and Prete Fields, both heavily used athletic fields; Corliss Park, a multi-purpose facility with a softball field, basketball court, tennis court, and playground equipment; and Canada Pond, a city-owned conservation area which could be used for canoeing and kayaking.  Also located along the river are several vacant or underused mills with potential for redevelopment.  The most notable of these is the abandoned Steere Mill, which may have significant historical and architectural value.  In addition, a private developer has recently shown interest in redeveloping the Silver Spring Mill complex for commercial use.[8]  

Natural Resources  

Most of the West River is flanked by a relatively undisturbed natural resource corridor which varies in width and habitat type.  Two sections of the river--a middle area just south of the Hawkins Street-Branch Avenue intersection and an upper area on the site of the former Whipple’s Pond--have been identified by the Providence Parks Department as especially important wetlands and flood plains.  Such areas provide the vital environmental benefits of flood storage, pollution filtration, habitat for birds and small mammals, and aesthetic relief from urban development.[9]   

In wooded areas, the river corridor supports diverse native trees, such as Red Maples, oaks, and cottonwoods, and shrubs such as blackberry and pepperbush.  Open marshy areas are dominated by cattails and bulrushes.  Birds seen near the river include bluejays, cardinals, mourning doves, red-winged blackbirds, sparrows, crows, and red-tailed hawks.  Although no sighting reports could be located, it is likely that small mammals such as chipmunks and squirrels and possibly larger animals such as raccoons, muskrats, foxes, and fishers live in secluded areas of the West River corridor.

Like most urban rivers, the West River is subject to pollution from numerous sources.  Four industrial facilities have state-issued permits to discharge wastewater into the river.[10]  Three Combined Sewer Overflows discharge a mixture of stormwater and raw sewage into the river.  In addition, stormwater mixed with oil, antifreeze, sediments, heavy metals, pesticides, and bacteria is channeled into the river from street drains.  A recent report identified several sites where toxic waste, trash, tires, and batteries have been illegally dumped into the river.[11]  It is not known whether the river supports fish.  

Land Use and Zoning  

Land use along the West River is fragmented into residential tracts interspersed with pockets of commercial and industrial use.  Along the upper section of the river, from Geneva Pond to the Rhode Island School for the Deaf, the land along the southwestern side of the river is predominantly in residential use.  Most of the northeastern side of the river is industrial land that is either vacant or underutilized.  The lower section of the river, from the Rhode Island School for Deaf to Interstate 95, is mostly bordered by land in commercial, institutional, or light industrial use. 

Zoning along the West River generally reflects current land use patterns.  The northeastern side of the upper section of the river is mostly zoned Industrial, with the exception of a wetland area off of Veazie Street which was recently changed to Open Space.  The southwestern side of the upper section of the river shows a checkerboard of General Residence, Three-Family, Limited Commercial, and Industrial zones.  Along the lower section of the river, the substantial area of Open Space just south of Hawkins Street corresponds to Prete and Metcalf Fields.  Moving south, the river passes through a short General Residence zone and then moves through Industrial and Heavy Commercial zones up to Interstate 95.

Land Ownership  

As shown on the map, much of the land bordering the West River is corporately owned, with just a few parcels under individual, city, state, or railroad/utility ownership.  The large industrial tracts on the northeastern side of the upper section of the river have single corporate owners.  The residential neighborhoods on the southwestern side are mostly divided into smaller lots with individual owners.  On the east side of Route 146, the strip running from Canada Pond down beyond Prete and Metcalf Fields is owned by a utility company.  Beyond this, there are several large tracts of corporately-owned land and another strip owned by a railroad. 

Community Perception  

To many residents of the North End, the West River is a worthless ditch.  Considered unkempt and overgrown, the wider marshy areas are left undisturbed, while more accessible sections of the river have become unsightly depositories for garbage and toxic wastes.  In spite of this general neglect and abuse, some residents recognize the river’s value and potential.  The Concerned Citizens of the North End, the area’s major neighborhood association, are eager to reclaim the river as a unique natural amenity for their community.  This group can envision a future when their river is again a centerpiece of the North End, offering a natural focus for the recreational, cultural, and economic life of their neighborhoods.

Proposed Greenway  

The West River is a promising greenway location for many reasons.  First, the river connects many points of interest, making it an ideal corridor for alternative transportation.  Furthermore, the river forms several environmentally significant wetland areas, most of which lie within industrial or commercial zones that could potentially be developed.  A greenway along the river could offer permanent protection to these areas, safeguarding their vital ecological functions while also making them accessible for study and aesthetic enjoyment.  A West River greenway could also spur the redevelopment of several abandoned or underused mill complexes adjacent to the river, offering new economic opportunities to the surrounding neighborhoods.  The river’s accessibility from residential areas and exceptional natural beauty make it an excellent site for a much-needed recreational amenity.  According to a study by the Providence Parks Department, the North Side of Providence has a 178-acre shortage of park acreage, and the most recent Park, Recreation, and Open Space Plan recommends developing new park facilities specifically in the Wanskuck neighborhood.[12]    

Preliminary assessments of land ownership and community interest offer further support for a West River Greenway.  The corporate ownership of large tracts of land bordering the river could facilitate the process of land acquisition, as there would be fewer individual owners to negotiate with.  The stable character of the North End neighborhoods and strong community interest in a greenway also support the immediate feasibility and long-term viability of the project.  The local neighborhood association is confident that their community could supply volunteers to help with the implementation and future maintenance of the greenway.[13]  At a larger scale, a West River Greenway would help complete the framework for a comprehensive citywide greenways system for Providence.  And finally, the creation of a greenway along the West River--designated a Secondary Natural Corridor in the State of Rhode Island Greenspace and Greenways Plan--would help fulfill an even grander vision for a greenway network encompassing the entire state of Rhode Island.    

Although a more detailed site analysis must be conducted before an exact route and trail structure can be designed, I propose the following preliminary plan for the West River Greenway.  Starting at Geneva Pond, the greenway would follow along either or both sides of the river toward the wetlands of the former Whipple’s Pond.  Here the path would skirt the southern edge of the marsh and continue on to pass Steere Mill.  The path would then move along the southern edge of the wetlands adjacent to Wanskuck Mill and through the mill complex.  At this point the trail should probably diverge from the river to cross under Route 146 along Branch Avenue, rather than attempting the more difficult crossing at the point where the river passes under the highway.  The greenway could still make a terminal spur to Corliss Park and Rhode Island School for the Deaf.  

After crossing under Route 146, the greenway would rejoin the river along its tributary from Canada Pond.  From here it would run north along the utility corridor up to Canada Pond and also proceed south along the eastern side of the river.  To the south, the trail would continue past Prete and Metcalf Fields, Hopkins Middle School, and Charles Place Apartments.  After crossing Charles Street, the greenway would continue on either or both sides of the river past the Silver Spring Mill complex.  The point where the river crosses the Amtrak line will require further study.  Finally, the greenway would follow the river behind the Stop & Shop and terminate just to the west of Interstate 95.  Major points of access to the greenway could be at Douglas Avenue, Wild Street, Veazie Street, the intersection of Branch Avenue and Vandewater Street, Rhode Island School for the Deaf, the intersection of Branch Avenue and Route 146, Hawkins Street, Hopkins Middle School, Charles Street, and West River Street.    

The variety of ecosystems within the greenway may present a challenge to trail design.  It is possible that the structure of the trail would need to be changed as it passes through different habitats.  In relatively flat, stable, wooded areas, the path might be fairly wide and paved with asphalt to accommodate both pedestrians and bicycles.  In less stable areas, especially along the few sections of the river that abut steeper slopes, the trail may need to be left unpaved and restricted to pedestrians or else carefully engineered for bicycle use.  In some marshy areas, the trail would probably need to take the form of an elevated boardwalk in order to avoid disturbing the wetland habitat.  Although these varying trail requirements could add to the time and costs of implementation, they could also help create an exceptionally interesting and attractive greenway.

[6]Providence Parks Department, Providence Recreation Department, and Providence Department of Planning & Development, Providence Park, Recreation and Open Space Plan: A Recovery Action Program for 1991–1995 (Providence, February 1992), 7.1.