SLA Anti-Sweatshop Work

In 1999, the Brown SLA conducted a campaign to establish a Code of Conduct regarding the manufacturing of Brown apparel in sweatshops. 

Sweatshops are an important and preventable human rights issue. It is crucial not to lose sight of the abuses going on to this day in the countries that are the primary producers of clothing for the United States: 85-hour work weeks, sexual harassment, union busting, and perhaps worst of all, wages so low that workers are unable to provide basic food and clothing for their families. These conditions are consistently reported by workers, human rights groups, and even the governments of these countries.

The goal of our work is not to shut down these sweatshops - we recognize that these jobs and investments are vitally important to the developing economies in these countries. The workers and their families depend on this income, as inadequate as it is, to survive. We work to leverage our power as consumers to improve conditions - we would never support any course of action that would cause these workers to lose their jobs.

These sweatshop conditions, which constitute a large scale human rights crisis, are preventable. The conditions in factories and the lives of workers would improve drastically if apparel companies enforced workplace Codes of Conduct with these five types of provisions:


1. Companies must publicly disclose the street addresses of all sites where apparel is manufactured. This seemingly basic information is kept secret by almost all apparel manufactures to prevent human rights groups from reporting the conditions in these factories.

2. The factories must be inspected by independent monitors that can respond to worker reports of Code of Conduct violations. An independent monitor can be a local religious or human rights organization-essentially any group that workers can feel comfortable talking to without fear of retribution by the factory management.

3. Codes of Conduct must include basic human rights and workplace safety language. Since the vast majority of apparel workers in developing countries are women, Codes of Conduct also require specific women's rights language in order to be effective. This includes language forbidding sexual harassment, mandatory pregnancy tests, and forced birth control.

4. Workers must be given the right to freely organize unions and bargain collectively.

5. Companies must pay their workers a living wage. A 'living wage' is simply enough money for a family of four to afford sufficient food, housing, clothing, and medicine. In many cases a living wage is only cents more than the current wage. Paying a living wage would represent a minute increase in cost to companies, which would still be getting labor much cheaper than the minimum wage in the United States, but it makes a huge difference in the lives of malnourished workers living in debt. A living wage is a human right, present in the United Nations Declaration of Human Rights--anything less is unacceptable.


One problem is that until these provisions are adopted and enforced, the abuses of sweatshops will remain inherent in the apparel industry. The answer to the question, "Are there any 'good' companies that it's OK to buy clothes from?" is, unfortunately, a frustrating one: as long as the problems are industry-wide, anti-sweatshop groups don't endorse certain brands over others.

The nature of the apparel industry, with thousands of miles separating the Brown bookstore and a factory compound in El Salvador and with layers of sub-contractors between the raw fabric and the assembled product, makes it difficult to enforce Brown's Code.

The University of Wisconsin-Madison conducted a large Living Wage Symposium in late November of 1999. Experts, students, and workers gathered to explore different formulas and methods for calculating a living wage, and examine the effects of a living wage on a developing economy. Living wage research is being planned.


Brown's Code of Conduct

Brown's initial Code of Conduct- This is the Code that was adopted in 1998.

Brown's Monitoring Principles- Monitoring principles announced by SLA and the Administration. President Gee said that if the FLA did not meet these principles by October 15, 1999 Brown would withdraw from the FLA. The principles have not been met but Brown has yet to withdraw.

Brown's Living Wage Language- The living wage language added to the Brown Code in the fall of 1999. This language was written by SLA and is based on similar language adopted by the University of Wisconsin.

Women's Rights Language- Virtually all sweatshop workers are women. This language was proposed by SLA and added to the Brown Code in the Fall of 1999.

Why Brown should withdraw from the FLA.

Sweatshop Articles


Academic articles about sweatshop issues:

Nike Sweatshops
This is an article by Jeff Ballinger, from the Kennedy School of Government at Harvard and the director of Press For Change. The piece outlines some of Nike's shifting response to criticism of its labor standards.

Rothstein-Amsden Debate
This issue of the Boston Review includes a debate between Richard Rothstein (from the Economic Policy Institute) and Alice Amsden on the case for international labor standards. Mr. Rothstein, arguing in favor of stronger labor standards, concludes with this thought: "The expectation that higher [labor] standards will deliver these benefits does not require abstract faith in the ultimate harmony of all interests, but historically-grounded confidence in the capacity of politics to ameliorate human misery."

Speech by Bob Ross
This is a speech called "Accountability and the Sweatshop Issue," given by Dr. Robert Ross of Clark University. The speech, given to a religious group, focuses on "dirty hands" issues and the consumer.


Human Rights Organizations Articles:

FLA Critical Analysis
This is an analysis of the Fair Labor Association (FLA), compiled by Medea Benjamin, the director of the human rights group Global Exchange. It is an excellent comprehensive overview of why the FLA's standards are inadequate, and why human rights groups and unions dropped out of the FLA to protest its weakness.

Saipan Lawsuit
9 companies recently agreed to settle a lawsuit contesting working conditions on the island of Saipan, but many companies-- including the GAP, JC Penny, and Sears--refuse to settle the lawsuit.

Columbia University Living Wage Study
This is a report done by Columbia Univeristy graduate students in Economics. The students conducted interviews and market-basket surveys with apparel workers in El Salvador, in order to determine the basic costs of healthy living for an average-sized fam ily. The study found that the current minimum wage amounts to less than one third of what a living wage would be.

Summary of WRC
This is an executive summary of the Workers Rights Consortium (WRC), the factory monitoring organization developed over the past year by United Students Against Sweatshops (USAS). WRC is a clear conceptual alternative to the FLA, and was formed in close conjunction with workers and human rights experts. Members of the Brown Student Labor Alliance were involved in the creation of WRC, and are currently involved as WRC forms its advisory board (which includes Jeff Ballinger, among others). The full text of WRC is available on the same site (requires Adobe Acrobat): WRC Full Text

If you're interested in more articles of this kind, please e-mail David_Moore@brown.edu