Sunscreen and skin cancer: Brown University dermatologist answers the burning questions

With summer in full swing, Dr. Elnaz Firoz of the Warren Alpert Medical School and the Miriam Hospital dispels sunscreen myths and shares advice for safe, healthy fun in the sun.

PROVIDENCE, R.I. [Brown University] — Sunscreen should be simple: Apply it properly, and it will do its job shielding skin from the sun’s damaging rays. Yet despite the fact that sunscreen has enjoyed popularity for decades — and that it’s recommended for universal use by the American Academy of Dermatology — it is often misunderstood and misused.

Dr. Elnaz Firoz, an associate professor of dermatology, clinician educator, at Brown University’s Warren Alpert Medical School, and medical director of dermatology at Miriam Hospital in Providence, said she spots dozens of sunscreen use mistakes every time she goes to the beach.

“I'm always so shocked at the practices that I see,” Firoz said. “It makes me wonder how we can get more information out to people about how to use sunscreen.”

One way to educate people about sun protection is to connect them with dermatologists. Firoz is one of several Brown-affiliated faculty members who participate in free skin cancer screenings, including at the Amal Clinic at Clínica Esperanza, the Rhode Island Free Clinic and a series of skin check events held at Rhode Island beaches in partnership with the Rhode Island Department of Health.

In this Q&A, Firoz shares sun protection advice and addresses myths about the dangers of sunscreen.

Q: What are the biggest mistakes people make when it comes to using sunscreen?

It's very common for people at the beach to use aerosol bottles of “invisible” chemical sunscreen. Most of the product ends up getting sprayed into the air instead of on the skin, thereby providing less coverage than intended. People will also use the spray sunscreen on faces, where it can get in the eyes, nose and mouth, and cause stinging or a terrible aftertaste. I understand that the spray version is convenient, but it can be difficult to use it in a way that provides adequate protection.

Q: What type of sunscreen do you recommend?

I advise my patients to find a broad-spectrum — meaning it protects against both UVA and UVB sun rays — mineral sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 30. There are two main product formulations: mineral sunscreens, which have ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide that sit on the top layer of your skin and block and reflect UV rays; and chemical sunscreens, which sink into your skin and act like sponges, absorbing the sun’s UV rays. Chemical sunscreens are somewhat less photostable than mineral sunscreens, which means they degrade over time slightly more quickly as they are exposed to UV radiation.

I'm a big fan of mineral sunscreen lotion, which is not only broad-spectrum but also safe, and lasts longer both in and out of the water. Mineral formulations tend to be thicker and some may leave a whitish cast on the skin, but technology has advanced to the point that there are now tinted and untinted mineral sunscreens that go on quite easily. 

Q: In your practice, what implications for patients do you see as a result of not wearing sunscreen?

The main reason to use sunscreen is to prevent skin cancer. All types of skin cancer, including basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma, are unfortunately on the rise. Melanoma is especially worrisome because it can metastasize if not caught early and become fatal, which is why we urge people to get skin checks. Squamous cell carcinoma can also be fatal (albeit rarely), particularly in patients who are elderly or immunocompromised. 

UV radiation is a carcinogen — we know that to be 100% true. Each person is going to withstand that carcinogen differently based on their genetics and behavioral practices. And there are, of course, subtypes of melanoma that are not related to the sun. But I tell patients that generally speaking, their risk for skin cancer will be lower if they practice sun safe behaviors, which includes wearing sunscreen. Wearing sunscreen also slows the process of sun damage to the skin. 

The main reason to use sunscreen is to prevent skin cancer. UV radiation is a carcinogen — we know that to be 100% true.

Dr. Elnaz Firoz Associate Professor of Dermatology, Clinician Educator, Brown University’s Warren Alpert Medical School
 
Dr. Elnaz Firoz

Q: Is there any truth to the web and social media rumors that sunscreen is toxic?

Some data have shown that some ingredients in chemical sunscreens may be detected in the bloodstream after application. What those chemicals are doing in the body then becomes a bigger question; some research has shown that they can disrupt hormonal systems, for example. More research is needed to fully elucidate and understand these observations. 

Mineral sunscreens, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide have not been observed to have these same effects on the body. Also known as physical blockers because of the way they work, mineral sunscreens are safe for people of all ages, and are sometimes even marketed as “baby” sunscreens. Mineral sunscreens are the only type of sunscreen allowed in Hawaii and Australia, and I think they’ll be the sunscreen of choice for most people in the U.S. in five or 10 years.

Q: How do you advise people who like to get a “base coat” of tan to protect their skin from burning?

People with darker skin do have a better ability to withstand stronger sun. But UV radiation doesn’t discriminate and can still cause collagen degradation and skin cancer in people with darker skin. Interestingly, dermatologists sometimes use UV light in medical settings to treat certain skin issues. So there is some truth to what we call “skin conditioning” — getting small amounts of sun over time to condition your skin so that it’s less likely to burn. But an important point to remember: Even if your skin doesn’t burn, a tan is still a sign of sun damage. 

Q: Are tanning salons safe?

Tanning salons exclusively use UVA rays because those rays activate color-producing cells to darken the skin. UVA rays penetrate deeper than UVB rays, which makes them more powerful. This is the type of UV ray that is linked to melanoma. The amount of UVA radiation that you get in a tanning booth is many times higher than what you would get from the environment. Continuous use of tanning booths is dangerous; it has been linked to the rise in melanoma rates, particularly in young women.

Q: Beyond wearing sunscreen, what are some other ways people can protect their skin from UV rays?

I love this question — sunscreen can’t provide 100% protection, and there are other effective sun protection strategies. I recommend wearing a hat that has a 2- or 3-inch brim all the way around. This will cover more of your face, neck and ears than a baseball cap, which really only protects the top of your head and the upper half of your face. You can also put up an umbrella to create shade. In both of these cases, though, it’s important to remember that the sun's rays reflect off the water and the sand, so you can still be exposed to UV rays even while in the shade on a sunny day at the beach.

Another option is to wear Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF)-rated clothing like a rash guard, shirt or pants, or UPF-rated sleeves to pull on your arms, especially when driving, kayaking or cycling. Sun protective clothing can be even more effective than sunscreen because it doesn’t need to be reapplied every two to three hours, which people often forget to do. I tell patients to pick the strategies that work best for them, because sunscreen, hats and clothing only work if you wear them.